Emily Johnson
Casing is a layer of material added to the top of the bulk substrate to provide the best setting for mushrooms to flourish. While it is possible to grow mushrooms without one, a casing layer can provide much-needed protection to your mycelium growing project. The casing layer can be made from various materials that are organic, inorganic, or a mixture of both. It is important to note that the casing layer should not completely dry out as it serves as a water container for mature mushrooms. Additionally, the right degree of humidity in the casing layer is crucial for mushroom growth.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose of casing | To provide protection to the mycelium growing project |
| Casing layer composition | Organic, inorganic, or a mixture of both |
| Casing layer thickness | ½”-1” thick across the top of the block |
| Casing layer moisture | Should not be too dry or too wet; should be squeezable with a few steady drops of water coming out |
| Pasteurization | Recommended to prevent contamination |
| Casing layer material | Coco coir, peat moss, vermiculite, lime, gypsum, hydrated lime, limestone flour, crushed oyster shells |
| Casing layer function | Prevents the substrate from drying out, stimulates mushroom formation, and serves as a water container for mature mushrooms |
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What You'll Learn
Casing layer thickness
The thickness of the casing layer for mushrooms ranges from 0.25 to 1 inch, depending on the source. Some recommend a thinner layer of 0.25 to 0.5 inches, while others suggest a slightly thicker layer of 0.5 to 1 inch. It is important to note that the casing layer should be loose and not compacted.
The casing layer is typically made from organic, inorganic, or a combination of both types of materials. Common ingredients include peat moss, vermiculite, and coco coir, which help with moisture retention and pest control. The layer is placed on top of the colonized substrate to provide a consistently humid environment and protect the mycelium.
Before applying the casing layer, it is important to pasteurize the mixture to prevent contamination. This can be done by simmering the mix in a pot for 45 to 60 minutes, ensuring the centre reaches a temperature of 65-80 degrees Celsius for 30 minutes. It is crucial to let the mixture cool to room temperature before adding it to the block, as hot casing can kill the mycelium.
After applying the casing, the newly cased blocks are placed in a fruiting chamber. Within 4-7 days, pins should start to appear through the casing. At this point, it is crucial to maintain humidity as the mushrooms continue to grow. The casing layer should not be allowed to dry out completely, as this can cause the pins to abort.
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Pasteurising the casing layer
Casing layers are an important step in cultivating mushrooms. They provide a humid environment at the interface of the substrate and the environment, aiding in moisture retention. However, they are prone to contamination. Therefore, pasteurization is often used to reduce harmful pathogens without eliminating beneficial microorganisms.
Pasteurizing the Casing Layer
Pasteurization is a critical step in preparing the casing layer for mushroom cultivation. It helps to reduce contaminants and competing organisms, such as mould or bacteria, while preserving beneficial microbes. The process involves heating the casing layer to a specific temperature range for a set period, typically between 65-80°C for about 30 minutes. This range is crucial for killing harmful pathogens and preserving beneficial microbes.
There are several methods for pasteurizing the casing layer. One method is to place the casing layer in a mushroom grow bag and simmer it in a pot for 45-60 minutes. It is important to use a probe thermometer to monitor the temperature and ensure it reaches the pasteurization range. Additionally, something heavy should be placed on top of the bag to prevent the casing from floating.
Another method is steam pasteurization, where steam is released into containers or insulated rooms containing layers or bags of pre-moistened casing material. It is important not to let the casing get too hot, as it can sterilize and kill beneficial bacteria.
Oven pasteurization is also an option, but it is limited by the size of the oven. For this method, the oven is preheated to 390-400°F (200-210°C), and water is added to the casing layer until it is slightly above field capacity to account for water loss through evaporation.
Pasteurization is an important step in the mushroom cultivation process, as it improves the yield and quality of mushrooms by creating a cleaner environment with fewer competitors and threats. It is a safeguard against contamination and a promoter of healthy mushroom growth.
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The right humidity
The casing layer is a material added to the top of the bulk substrate to provide the best possible cultivation environment for your mushrooms. It stimulates the formation of mushrooms and also serves as a water container for mature mushrooms.
The casing layer should be moist but not too wet. To test this, grab a handful of the mixture and squeeze it in your hand. If you are unable to squeeze out any water, it is too dry. If a light squeeze causes a stream of water to come out, it’s too wet. You want to be able to squeeze the mixture as hard as you can and only have a few steady drops come out. This is known as "field capacity".
To achieve field capacity, start by mixing your dry components together. Then, slowly add water and mix again. You can also pasteurize the mixture without changing its moisture content. To do this, place the mixture in a mushroom grow bag and simmer it in a pot for 45-60 minutes.
Once the casing is applied, place the newly cased blocks in the fruiting chamber. The humidity doesn’t have to be as high as it would be without a casing, but be sure that the casing layer doesn’t dry out completely. After 4-7 days, you should start to see pins coming through the casing. At this time, you want to make sure that the humidity is maintained as the mushrooms continue to grow. If it gets too dry at this point, the pins will abort.
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Using sheet moss as a casing
Sheet moss, or peat moss, is a popular choice for a casing layer due to its ability to retain moisture. It can hold up to 10 times its weight in moisture, which is essential for creating the high humidity that mushrooms need to develop. To test if your casing layer has the right amount of moisture, grab a handful of the mixture and squeeze. If no water comes out, it is too dry; if water streams out, it is too wet. You want a few steady drops to come out when you squeeze as hard as you can.
To make a casing layer with sheet moss, you will need a 50/50 mix of peat moss and vermiculite. Combine the mixture with your hands, and then add water until it reaches the proper moisture level. This mixture does not need to be fully sterilized, but it is a good idea to pasteurize it to prevent contamination. To pasteurize, place the mixture in a mushroom grow bag and simmer it in a pot for 45-60 minutes. Use a probe thermometer to ensure the centre of the mixture reaches a temperature of 65-80°C and stays there for about 30 minutes.
Once your casing layer is ready, apply about 1/2"–1" thick across the top of the block. After applying the casing, place the newly cased blocks in a fruiting chamber and maintain the humidity. Within 4-7 days, you should see pins coming through the casing. Continue to ensure the humidity is correct as the mushrooms grow. Once they have reached a reasonable size, it is time to harvest.
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Casing layer materials
The casing layer is a material that is added to the top of the bulk substrate to provide the best possible cultivation environment for mushrooms to flourish. The casing layer can be made from various materials that are organic, inorganic, or a mixture of both.
The use of a casing layer depends on the type of mushroom being cultivated. While some mushrooms won't fruit without a casing layer, using one for certain other types of mushrooms can be counterproductive. The casing layer is primarily used to aid with moisture retention in the substrate. It also helps to provide a consistently humid environment, which is essential for maintaining proper fruiting conditions and initiating fruit body growth.
Some of the most commonly used materials for the casing layer include:
- Peat moss: Peat moss is a commonly used material for the casing layer. It is inexpensive and can be found at most garden centres. It is a type of unconsolidated soil material that consists largely of undecomposed or slightly decomposed organic matter accumulated under conditions of excessive moisture.
- Vermiculite: Vermiculite is used in almost all casing recipes due to its inert nature and ability to hold water. It is also inexpensive and easily available at garden centres or hydroponics shops.
- Coconut coir: Coconut coir is the crushed outer shell of the coconut fruit. It is excellent at retaining water and can be nutritious for the mushrooms. It is often used as a bulk substrate.
- Garden soil, sphagnum moss, and sheet moss are some other materials that can be used for the casing layer.
It is important to note that the casing layer is prone to contamination, so it is generally a good idea to pasteurize it before applying it to the top of the block.
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Frequently asked questions
The use of a casing layer depends on the type of mushroom being cultivated. While it is possible to grow mushrooms without one, a casing layer provides protection to the mycelium and creates an ideal growing environment.
A casing layer is a material added to the top of the bulk substrate to prevent it from drying out and to stimulate mushroom growth. It can be made from organic, inorganic, or a mixture of both types of materials.
Common materials used for a casing layer include coco coir, peat moss, vermiculite, lime, gypsum, hydrated lime, limestone flour, and crushed oyster shells. These materials help control pH levels, pasteurize the substrate, and provide essential minerals for mushroom growth.
To test the humidity of the casing layer, grab a handful of the mixture and squeeze it. If no water comes out, it is too dry. If a light squeeze causes water to stream out, it is too wet. The ideal humidity level is achieved when a hard squeeze produces a few steady drops of water.
