Mushroom Coloring: My Creative Process

The world of mushrooms is a vibrant one, with a spectrum of colours that can be used as dyes. Mushroom colours vary from one individual fruiting body to another, and some mushrooms change colour when cut or bruised. Mushrooms can be used to dye natural fibres such as wool, silk, and linen, and the weight of the mushrooms is an important factor in determining how much colour can be extracted. The type of mordant used can also modify the colour, resulting in a range of shades. Additionally, mushrooms react to fluctuations in light and nutrients, which can affect their colour.

Foraging for dye mushrooms

Identifying Dye Mushrooms

Firstly, you need to learn how to identify dye mushrooms. This can be a challenging task as mushroom colours vary greatly, and some mushrooms change colour when cut, bruised, or dried. Therefore, it is important to be able to identify mushrooms by characteristics other than colour, such as shape, size, and texture. Familiarise yourself with the different types of dye mushrooms and their unique features. The Dyer's Polypore mushroom, for example, is a good beginner mushroom with distinctive colour changes throughout its life cycle.

Timing and Location

The timing and location of your foraging trip are crucial. January, after some rainfall, is an excellent time for mushroom hunting in the Bay Area, California. The Sonoma County coast, particularly Salt Point State Park, is considered a hub for mushroom hunters, offering a variety of mushroom species. Check the weather and plan your trip accordingly, as cooler temperatures can promote mushroom growth.

Permits and Consent

Before you set out, ensure you have the necessary permits to remove wild mushrooms from your chosen location. It is important to respect private property and obtain permission from landowners before entering their land and removing any mushrooms. Leave some mushrooms behind to ensure the forest ecosystem remains healthy and maintain a sustainable approach to foraging.

Equipment and Preparation

When you've found your dye mushrooms, you'll need some equipment to create your dye. Basic supplies include stainless steel pots, separate from your kitchen cooking tools, and a coffee grinder or knife to process the mushrooms. Weigh your mushrooms and fibres to ensure you have enough; as a rule of thumb, the weight of goods (WOG) should be the same as the weight of fibre (WOF), but some mushrooms yield more colour, so you'll need less.

Mordanting and Dyeing

To get the colours to affix to natural fibres, you'll need to mordant them. Different mordants will yield different colours, so choose accordingly. For animal fibres like wool, warm water and a mordant like aluminium potassium sulphate dissolved together at 180° Fahrenheit/82° Celsius is a good option. For plant-based fibres, use aluminium acetate with warm water at 160° Fahrenheit/71° Celsius. Soak the fibres for 24 hours, then rinse and dry. Finally, create your mushroom dye bath by grinding or chopping the mushrooms and exposing them to water. Add your mordanted fibres and leave them to absorb the colour.

Preparing the mushrooms

Firstly, it is important to obtain the right mushrooms for colouring. Foraging for wild mushrooms can be a great option, but it requires knowledge and caution. Make sure you are foraging in approved areas and have the necessary permits. Learn how to identify mushrooms and become a conscientious forager to ensure a safe and sustainable experience. You can also purchase mushrooms specifically for dyeing, ensuring you have a sufficient quantity to achieve your desired colour intensity.

Once you have your mushrooms, the next step is to weigh them. The weight of the mushrooms is crucial as it determines the amount of colour they can yield. A general rule of thumb is to maintain a 1:1 ratio between the weight of the mushrooms (WOM) and the weight of the fibre you intend to dye. However, some mushrooms are stronger dyers, so you may need less and adjust the ratio to 1:2. Fresh mushrooms can be tricky to measure accurately due to their high water content.

To maximise colour extraction, it is recommended to grind the mushrooms into a fine powder using a coffee grinder. This increases the surface area exposed to water, enhancing the colour yield. If grinding is not feasible, chop the mushrooms into the smallest possible pieces. Additionally, eyeballing the pile of mushrooms can be a quick way to estimate if you have enough for colouring; if the mushroom pile is the same size or larger than your fibre pile, you're likely good to go.

Before dyeing, it is essential to mordant your fibres. Mordanting involves treating the fibres to help the mushroom colours affix to them. Different mordants and methods can modify the final colour, so choose the right one for your desired outcome. For wool, warm water is used, and the mordant is dissolved before adding the fibres. The mixture is then heated to 180° Fahrenheit/82° Celsius. It is then cooled for 24 hours, after which the fibres are rinsed and dried. For silk, a similar process is followed, but the heating temperature is lower at 160° Fahrenheit/71° Celsius.

Lastly, it's important to note that mushroom colours can vary significantly from one fruiting body to another. Additionally, colours can change when the mushrooms are dried or cut, so it's essential to take detailed notes and photographs during the preparation process to capture any colour variations. Some mushrooms, like Russula densifolia, turn bright red within minutes of being cut, while Gyroporus cyanescens turns blue almost instantly when cut or bruised.

Preparing the fibres

Once you have the correct amount of mushrooms, prepare the fibres by cutting the fabric into 3.25" squares to account for shrinkage. Natural fibres like wool, silk, and linen are recommended for mushroom dyeing. Wool fibres can be sourced as worsted wool, with a weight of 1 gram per swatch. Silk fibres, such as crepe de chine, should also be 1 gram per swatch, and organic linen swatches should weigh 2 grams each.

To get natural colours to adhere to the fibres, mordanting is necessary. Mordanting involves treating the fibres with a substance to help the dye adhere and can modify the final colour. Different mordants will yield different colours, so choose accordingly. For wool, start by warming water and dissolving the mordant in it. Add the wool fibres and heat the mixture to 180° Fahrenheit/82° Celsius. Remove the pot from the heat and allow it to cool for 24 hours, occasionally stirring gently. Finally, remove the fibres, rinse them, and hang them to dry.

For silk fibres, a similar process is followed. Warm water is used, and the mordant is dissolved in it. The silk fibres are added, and the mixture is heated to a lower temperature of 160° Fahrenheit/71° Celsius compared to wool. As with wool, the silk fibres are then cooled, rinsed, and hung to dry.

Mordanting

There are several commonly used mordants, each producing distinct effects on the colour and fibre. Alum (potassium aluminium sulfate) is a popular choice, known for producing bright and clear colours. Another commonly used mordant is iron (ferrous sulfate), which tends to darken or "sad" colours. Copper sulfate is also used but is less common due to its environmental impact. Additionally, aluminium acetate is suitable for cellulose/plant fibres, while cream of tartar is often used for wool to keep it soft.

The mordanting process varies depending on the fibre type. For wool, the standard procedure involves warming water, dissolving the mordant, adding the fibres, and heating the mixture to 180° Fahrenheit/82° Celsius. The mixture is then cooled for 24 hours, with occasional stirring, before rinsing and drying the fibres. Silk, a more delicate fibre, requires a lower temperature of 160° Fahrenheit/71° Celsius and a gentler approach, especially when using iron as a mordant.

The weight of the fibre plays a crucial role in determining the amount of mordant required. Generally, the mordant's percentage should match the weight of the fibre. However, in some cases, such as with aluminium potassium sulfate, the percentage can be lower, at 8% of the fibre weight, with the addition of 2% cream of tartar for softness. It is important to note that the weight of fresh mushrooms can be challenging to calculate accurately due to their water content.

The dyeing process

Once you have the right amount of mushrooms, they need to be prepared for dyeing. This involves grinding them into a powder using a coffee grinder or chopping them into the smallest pieces possible if they are fresh. The ground or chopped mushrooms are then mixed with water to create a dye bath. The type of fibre being dyed also plays a role in the dyeing process. Natural fibres such as wool, silk, and linen are commonly used with mushroom dyes. The colour of the fibre, its weave, density, and weight will influence the final colour outcome.

Before dyeing, it is essential to mordant the fibres to help the mushroom colours affix to them. Mordanting involves treating the fibres with a substance that modifies and intensifies the dye colour. Different mordants can be used, and the choice of mordant will impact the final colour. For wool, warm water is used to dissolve the mordant, and the fibres are heated to 180° Fahrenheit/82° Celsius. The pot is then removed from the heat and allowed to cool for 24 hours before rinsing and drying the fibres. For silk, a similar process is followed, but the heating temperature is lower at 160° Fahrenheit/71° Celsius.

The fibres are then ready to be dyed. They are immersed in the mushroom dye bath and heated to a specific temperature and for a specified duration, depending on the type of fibre and dye. After dyeing, the fibres are removed from the bath, rinsed to remove any excess dye, and hung to dry. The dyed fibres can then be used for various purposes, such as weaving or crafting. It is important to note that the colours derived from mushrooms are natural and may not be as vibrant or intense as synthetic dyes.

Additionally, it is worth noting that mushrooms are sensitive to their environment, and their colours can be influenced by factors such as light and nutrients. Adjusting the lighting in their environment can impact their colour and growth. However, it is important to approach these adjustments with caution, as too much light can bleach the mushrooms, while too little can cause the colour to fade or appear dull.

Frequently asked questions