Michael Davis
Mushrooms have been used to create dyes for centuries, with the practice being traced back to as early as the 15th century. The process of mushroom dyeing involves extracting colours from the fungi through the use of solvents or particulation of raw materials. The resulting dyes can vary in colour, ranging from beige to blue-green, depending on the mushroom species and the material being dyed. When dyeing, it is important to consider the type of fibre being used, as mushrooms tend to create brighter colours on protein/animal-based fibres such as wool and silk. For those seeking vegan alternatives, options like soy silk are available, although the colours may not adhere as strongly. The process of dyeing with mushrooms is a blend of art and science, requiring experimentation and a basic understanding of chemistry.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Mushroom type | Phaeolus schweinitzii (Dyer's Polypore), shingled hedgehog mushroom, Hydnellum peckii, Aspergillus oryzae, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Saccharomyces boulardii |
| Mushroom colour | Not indicative of dye colour |
| Mushroom preparation | Dry mushrooms, grind into a fine powder, use a ratio of 1:1 or 1:2 (mushroom:fibre) |
| Mushroom extraction | Soak in water at 115°F (46°C) for 1 hour |
| Fibre type | Natural fibres like wool, silk, linen, nylon; protein fibres; alternative fibres like soy silk |
| Fibre preparation | Wash, cut into swatches, weigh, mordant, wet out |
| Dye process | Soak fibre in mushroom dye bath, cook in a well-ventilated area |
| Colour variation | Depends on mushroom type, material dyed, mordant used, mushroom maturity, pH |
| Additional notes | Wear a mask when grinding mushrooms, use separate equipment from kitchen supplies |
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What You'll Learn
Selecting the right mushroom
Firstly, the type of mushroom you select will determine the colour of the dye. Different mushrooms produce different colours, and even mushrooms from the same family can vary. For example, Phaeolus schweinitzii, commonly known as Dyer's Polypore, can create a range of colours from yellow to green to orange to brown, depending on its life stage and the mordant used. Hapalopilus nidulans, on the other hand, will dye a consistent shade of purple, but only if the pH is raised to 8-9 during the initial cooking stage.
Secondly, the age of the mushroom can impact the colour obtained. For instance, Inonotus hispidus, a large annual polypore found on oak trees in eastern North America, produces the best colour at mid-age when its fruiting body turns from yellow-orange to deep burnt orange. Younger specimens will produce a similar colour to Dyer's Polypore. As the mushroom ages and turns black, the resulting dye will be weaker and less vibrant.
Thirdly, the type of fibre you intend to dye will also influence your mushroom selection. Mushrooms tend to create brighter, more saturated colours on protein/animal-based fibres such as wool and silk. Cellulose/plant-based fibres like cotton, linen, or hemp can be used, but the colours are often more muted and lighter.
Lastly, consider the availability and ease of identification of the mushroom. Dyer's Polypore, for instance, is easy for beginners to identify, and its colourful appearance indicates its potential as a dye mushroom. It is also widely available, as it grows on deciduous twigs and branches of birch, beech, and oak.
Remember, when selecting mushrooms for dyeing, it is essential to correctly identify the mushroom species, as some mushrooms may be toxic or unsafe for use. Always exercise caution and refer to reliable sources and experts for guidance.
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Preparing the mushroom
Preparing mushrooms for dyeing is a simple process, but it does require some prior knowledge and preparation.
Firstly, it is important to identify the mushrooms you wish to use and ensure they are suitable for dyeing. Not all mushrooms produce dye, and even those that do can vary in the colour they produce. Some common mushrooms used for dyeing include Dyer's Polypore, which produces shades of yellow, green, orange, and brown, and the shingled hedgehog mushroom, which contains blue-green pigments. It is critical to learn how to identify mushrooms and become a conscientious and thoughtful forager. Make sure you are foraging in approved areas and always leave some mushrooms behind for future growth.
Once you have foraged or sourced your mushrooms, you need to prepare them for dye extraction. The mushrooms should be dried and then ground into a fine powder using a coffee grinder. It is important to note that the grinder should be used only for dyestuffs and not for food preparation. When grinding, wear a mask to avoid inhaling the mushroom spores. The ratio of mushroom powder to fibre weight is typically 1:1, but this can vary depending on the mushroom's strength as a dye. Some strong-dying mushrooms may require a 1:2 ratio, meaning half the amount of mushroom to fibre weight.
After grinding, you can hydrate the mushroom powder. Add the powder to one litre of water warmed to approximately 46 degrees Celsius (115 degrees Fahrenheit). Stir the mixture well and maintain the temperature for about an hour, stirring occasionally.
Next, strain the ground mushrooms from the liquid using a strainer lined with silk habotai or a similar fabric. The mushroom residue can be saved for future use or eco-printing. This liquid is now your mushroom dye bath, ready for dyeing your chosen fibres.
It is important to note that mushrooms, like other natural dyes, tend to create brighter, more saturated colours on protein/animal-based fibres such as wool and silk. Vegan alternatives like soy silk are an option, but the colours may not adhere as strongly. Cellulose fibres like cotton, linen, and hemp may also be used but often produce more muted colours.
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Preparing the fabric
Before you begin, it is important to weigh your fibre and record this weight for future reference. If your fabric was not prepared for dyeing (PFD), you must scour the fabric to remove any surfactants that may prevent the dye from binding to the fibres. To do this, place some mild soap or pH-neutral detergent in a pot with water, add your fabric, and bring to a low boil for an hour. The water should appear dirty and brown, indicating that your fibres have been properly cleaned.
Once your fabric is prepared, you will need to mordant it. Mordanting is a critical step that enables the mushroom dye to bind with the fabric. There are several mordants to choose from, each resulting in a different colour. For example, aluminium potassium sulphate is used for protein/animal fibres, while aluminium acetate is used for cellulose/plant fibres. Iron and copper are mordants that can be used for both types of fibres and will result in darker colours with blue and green tones. The amount of mordant you use will depend on the weight of your fibre, typically ranging from 2% to 10% of the fibre's weight.
After mordanting, you should wet out your fibres by steeping them in warm water at around 115°F (46°C) for about an hour. This step ensures that your fabric is ready to absorb the dye evenly. If using wool, it is important to note that dry wool can be added to a hot dye bath without the risk of felting. However, if using silk, you should dye at a lower temperature as some mushrooms, like toothed fungi, lose their colour at temperatures above 170°F (77°C).
Lastly, before you begin the dyeing process, it is helpful to prepare labels with information about the yarn, mushroom type, ratio of mushroom to fibre, mordant used, and any other relevant details. This labelling practice will allow you to repeat your results or make adjustments in the future.
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Dyeing the fabric
Dyeing fabric with mushrooms is a fun and experimental process, with no set rules or recipes. It is important to remember that some mushrooms are poisonous and can irritate the skin, so always wear gloves and ensure proper ventilation.
Firstly, select your mushroom variety. Remember that different mushrooms will produce different colours, and even mushrooms in the same family may need to be treated differently. The shingled hedgehog mushroom, for example, produces a blue-green colour, while Phaeolus schweinitzii produces shades of green, yellow, gold, or brown.
Next, prepare your fabric. Protein/animal fibres such as wool and silk tend to create brighter, more saturated colours. Cellulose/plant-based fibres such as cotton, linen, or hemp can be used, but colours will be more muted and lighter. If your fabric was not prepared for dyeing, you will need to scour it first to remove surfactants. Do this by placing the fabric in a pot of water with a mild soap or pH-neutral detergent, bringing it to a low boil, and simmering for an hour. Rinse and dry the fabric.
Now, prepare your mushroom dye bath. Grind dried mushrooms into a fine powder using a coffee grinder, wearing a mask to protect yourself from the spores. The ratio of mushroom powder to water is typically 1:1, but this may vary depending on the mushroom and fabric type. Mix the powder with water at 115°F (46°C), stirring well, and maintain this temperature for one hour, stirring occasionally.
Some mushrooms may require pH modification to achieve the best colour results. You can use vinegar or citric acid to make the bath more acidic, emphasising red tones, or ammonia or washing soda to make it more basic, emphasising blue tones.
Strain the mushroom powder from the dye bath using a strainer lined with silk habotai or another straining fabric. The mushroom residue can be saved for eco-printing or another extraction.
Finally, add your mordanted fabric to the dye bath. The fabric should be wet and steeped in warm water at around 115°F (46°C) for about an hour, stirring occasionally. Leave the fabric in the dye bath for as long as needed to achieve your desired colour. Remember that silk requires a gentler procedure than other fibres.
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Drying the fabric
Preparing the Fabric for Drying:
Firstly, remove the fabric from the dye bath once it has achieved the desired colour. The duration of soaking the fabric in the dye bath may vary depending on the intensity of colour you wish to achieve. It is recommended to refer to specific mushroom dyeing instructions for the particular mushroom type you are using.
Rinsing the Fabric:
After removing the fabric from the dye bath, it is important to thoroughly rinse it to remove any excess dye. Use warm water and gently agitate the fabric to ensure that all residual dye is rinsed out. Take care not to rinse the fabric with cold water, as this may cause the dye to set unevenly.
Once the fabric has been thoroughly rinsed, it is now ready for drying. You can lay the fabric flat on a clean surface or hang it on a line, making sure it is not crowded together or bunched up. Allow adequate airflow around the fabric to ensure even drying. If possible, dry the fabric in a well-ventilated area or outdoors, avoiding direct sunlight, as this may affect the colour.
Drying Time:
The drying time may vary depending on factors such as temperature, humidity, and the thickness of the fabric. It is important to ensure that the fabric is completely dry before handling or using it. Touch the fabric occasionally to assess its dryness, but avoid wringing or twisting it, as this may affect the final texture.
Post-Dyeing Care:
After the fabric is completely dry, it is important to take care of it to maintain the colour and quality of the dye. Mushroom-dyed fabrics should be washed separately in cold water and mild detergent for the first few washes to avoid colour bleeding. Avoid using fabric softeners, as they may affect the absorbency of the fabric. Always dry the fabric naturally and avoid excessive sun exposure to prevent colour fading.
Dyeing fabric with mushrooms is an experimental and creative process, and the drying stage is an important part of achieving the final result. Remember to refer to specific instructions for the type of mushroom and fabric you are using, as well as taking the necessary safety precautions.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need a stainless steel pot, a thermometer, and some basic knowledge of chemistry. It is also important to cook your dye bath in a well-ventilated area.
First, you need to obtain mushrooms that yield colour. Then, grind the dried mushrooms into a fine powder in a coffee grinder. Next, hydrate the mushroom powder in water and stir well. Keep this mixture at 115 degrees Fahrenheit for one hour. Finally, strain out the ground mushroom and save the mushroom residue for eco-printing or another extraction.
Mushrooms work best with protein fibres such as wool and silk. Vegan alternatives like soy silk can be used, but the colours don't stick as well. Cotton, linen, hemp, and cellulose fibres do not take dyes well without treatment.
