Laura Smith
Button mushrooms are a great fungi to grow at home, as they offer fresh, organic mushrooms and provide an enjoyable hobby that can be practiced year-round. The successful cultivation of button mushrooms depends on precise environmental control throughout each growth phase. The process of fruiting mushrooms involves creating an environment that encourages the substrate to produce fruit bodies, which are the mushrooms themselves. This can be done in a variety of ways, from using a plastic bag to more complex fruiting chambers. The key factors to consider are temperature, humidity, oxygen levels, and lighting.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Lighting | Comfortable to read under. |
| Lighting hours | 16 hours on, 8 hours off. |
| Humidity | 75% to 95%. |
| Temperature | 70-75°F. |
| Spawn run temperature | 24-26°C. |
| Pinning temperature | 18-20°C. |
| Fruiting stage temperature | 16-18°C. |
| Casing layer temperature | 21-24°C. |
| Harvesting time | 18-21 days after casing application. |
| Harvesting size | 3-5 cm in diameter. |
| Container | Plastic tote, terrarium, mono tub, or plastic bag. |
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What You'll Learn
Optimal environmental conditions
The successful cultivation of button mushrooms depends on precise control of environmental conditions throughout each growth phase. Here are the optimal environmental conditions for each phase:
Spawn Run
Maintain temperatures between 24-26°C with relative humidity at 85-90% and minimal air exchange. The CO₂ concentration should be kept elevated (5,000-20,000 ppm), and no light is required.
Pinning
Reduce the temperature to 18-20°C and increase the humidity to 90-95%. Decrease CO₂ levels to 1,000-2,000 ppm and introduce minimal indirect light.
Fruiting
Further reduce the temperature to 16-18°C, with humidity at 85-90% and significantly increased air exchange (4-8 room volumes per hour). Keep CO₂ levels below 1,000 ppm and provide moderate indirect lighting (200-500 lux).
Lighting
Use lighting that is comfortable to read under, with lights on for 16 hours and off for 8 hours. LED lights can be used, and there is no particular spectrum requirement.
Casing Layer
The casing layer is critical for moisture retention, microclimate formation, and pinning stimulation. Maintain temperatures between 21-24°C with relative humidity at 90-95% for 5-7 days. Adjust the moisture content to 65-70% before application, and lightly mist the surface to maintain optimal moisture levels without saturation.
Fruiting Containers
Use a clean plastic container or a plastic bag with holes for ventilation. The container should be placed in a location that receives indirect sunlight, such as morning sun. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can contaminate the crop.
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Lighting
Firstly, during the incubation phase, mushrooms should be kept in the dark. Darkness promotes rapid and efficient colonisation of the substrate by the mycelium, as the fungus does not waste energy reacting to light.
Once the mycelium has fully colonised the substrate, light becomes crucial for triggering the pinning process and initiating fruiting. Light helps guide the growing direction of the fruiting body, ensuring the mushrooms grow in a healthy, compact shape.
The amount of light required by button mushrooms varies. Some sources recommend an intensity of 500 to 1000 lux for 8 to 12 hours per day. A common schedule followed by growers is 12 hours of light followed by 12 hours of darkness. However, it is important to note that button mushrooms are a species that grows mainly in darkness or under very low light. Intense light can even inhibit fruiting in button mushrooms, so indirect light is preferable.
The type of light also makes a difference. Light in the blue spectrum is generally effective for mushroom fruiting, with a minimum of 6000 Kelvin. Full-spectrum LED or fluorescent lamps are often used, as they produce low heat and provide a full light spectrum. For blue light, a wavelength of 430-470 nanometers is recommended.
When using grow lights, it is important to position them correctly. They should be placed about 12-18 inches above the mushrooms to provide diffuse, indirect light.
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Fruiting containers
One of the most common types of mushroom fruiting chambers is a monotub. This is a simple option for beginners and involves using a large plastic container, such as a plastic tote or storage container, with holes drilled in the sides for ventilation. The container should be as clean as possible before placing the mushroom block inside. Wash it out with hot water and detergent, or use a mix of 70% iso-alcohol and 30% water in a spray bottle to sterilize it, then wipe it down with a clean paper towel.
The size of the container depends on the measurements of the substrate and how thick you want the substrate layer to be. A standard substrate layer is 2-3 inches. You can also skewer the blocks on spikes in the container to maximize fruiting space and prevent the blocks from sliding around or toppling over.
Another option for a fruiting chamber is a hydroponics tent, which involves creating a wooden stud frame and covering it in plastic sheeting. This method is more suitable for those growing mushrooms at a larger scale.
For those looking for a simple and low-cost option, a plastic bag can be used as a fruiting chamber. Cut open the top of the bag and roll it onto itself, leaving 1-2 inches. Place water in a foil container and cover it with the mushroom block and the plastic bag. Mist the inside of the bag throughout the day so that visible droplets of water are present. Make small holes in the top of the bag to provide additional airflow.
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Harvesting
The first harvest period typically lasts 3-5 days, with subsequent flushes producing lower yields. You can pick the mushrooms by gently twisting them at the base, being careful not to destroy the roots. The mushrooms should be ready for picking within 7-10 days of placing your block in a container. They should be doubling in size every day, and once they stop growing, it's time to harvest them.
Button mushrooms are typically ready to harvest 18-21 days after casing application, when the caps reach 3-5 cm in diameter with the veil intact and not stretched.
If you are fruiting your mushrooms in a bag, you will need to open the bag to give the substrate fresh air once it is fully colonized. You can then harvest the mushrooms and fold the top of the bag closed to prevent the substrate from drying out. Mist the substrate to rehydrate if necessary, and more fruits should continue to grow in the coming weeks.
If you are using a monotub or another type of fruiting chamber, you can leave the mushrooms to grow in the chamber, and more fruit bodies will continue to grow in the next few days. Each tray should flush 2-4 times before the mycelium is spent.
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Spawning technique
Spawning is the process of introducing grain spawn/mycelium into a bulk substrate. This can be done directly through an injection port with a syringe or by transferring colonized grain spawn via agar plates. The fungi will then begin to colonize and spread throughout the medium, forming dense networks called mycelium, which support the entire system and lead to the formation of fruiting bodies.
For the spawning process, it is recommended to use a 100% colonized bag or cup of rice with cooled, field-capacity coco coir as a casing layer. Seal an upside-down Ziploc bag over the setup and keep it sealed or barely cracked for the first few days to allow the mycelium to partially colonize the coir. The casing layer is critical for moisture retention, microclimate formation, and pinning stimulation. It should be applied uniformly at a thickness of 3-5 cm across the colonized substrate, without compressing the material. Lightly mist the surface to maintain optimal moisture levels. During the casing run period, maintain temperatures between 21-24°C with relative humidity at 90-95% for 5-7 days.
Once the surface is about 50% colonized, it is time to introduce fruiting conditions. These conditions include constant humidity and Fresh Air Exchange (FAE). For cubensis species, simply flipping and cracking the lid of the container can provide sufficient FAE. Maintaining the correct environmental conditions during the spawn run is crucial for successful mushroom growth. Temperatures should be maintained between 24-26°C with relative humidity of 85-90% and minimal air exchange. CO₂ concentration should be elevated (5,000-20,000 ppm), and no light is required.
After the spawn run, the temperature is lowered to 18-20°C, and humidity is increased to 90-95% for pinning. CO₂ levels should be decreased to 1,000-2,000 ppm, and minimal indirect light should be introduced. The fruiting stage requires further temperature reduction to 16-18°C, humidity of 85-90%, and significantly increased air exchange (4-8 room volumes per hour). Maintaining these precise environmental controls is essential for successfully growing button mushrooms.
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Frequently asked questions
The ideal temperature for fruiting varies with species and strain, but generally, it is recommended to drop the temperature to induce fruiting. This is usually around 70-75 degrees. The humidity should be anywhere from 75% to 90%, and in the initiation phase, the first four days of fruiting, aim for humidity closer to 90%.
You will need a plastic storage container or a plastic bag to serve as your fruiting vessel or chamber. You will also need a hand mister to mist the mushrooms with water.
Wash the plastic container with hot water and detergent, or use a mix of 70% iso-alcohol and 30% water in a spray bottle to sterilize it and then wipe it down with a clean paper towel. If using a plastic bag, cut open the top of the bag and roll it on itself, leaving 1-2 inches. Place water in a foil container and cover it with the mushroom block and plastic bag.
Harvest button mushrooms when the caps reach 3-5 cm in diameter with the veil intact and not stretched, typically 18-21 days after casing application. You can also harvest when the mushrooms are fully grown by gently twisting them at the base.
