Emily Johnson
There are several factors to consider when deciding when to fruit mushrooms in a monotub. It is recommended to wait until the casing layer is 50-75% colonized, as this indicates that the mycelial network has reconnected and is ready for fruiting conditions. Some people prefer to fruit when the tub is 100% colonized, while others wait until they see the first pin or a good set of pins. It is also important to maintain a temperature between 21-24°C and provide indirect sunlight or room light for at least 4-6 hours per day. Once the monotub is introduced to fruiting conditions, the substrate should be misted once per day and fanned twice per day until the substrate is no longer producing mushrooms.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Temperature for colonisation | 24-27°C |
| Time for colonisation | 10 days or 2-3 weeks |
| Temperature for fruiting | 21-24°C |
| Lighting | 4-6 hours of indirect sunlight or room light |
| Lighting options | 24 hours of light or 12/12 cycle |
| Misting | Once per day throughout the fruiting stage |
| Fanning | Twice per day for 30 seconds until substrate stops producing mushrooms |
| Time for pins to appear | 14-21 days from spawning |
| Harvest time | When veils start to break |
| Flushes per tub | 2-5 |
| Casing layer colonisation | 50-75% before introducing fruiting conditions |
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What You'll Learn
Wait for full colonisation before fruiting
Waiting for full colonisation before fruiting is a recommended approach when growing mushrooms in a monotub. This means allowing the mycelium to completely colonise the substrate before introducing fruiting conditions. Here are some reasons and guidelines to help you understand this process better:
Benefits of Waiting for Full Colonisation
- Optimised Growth: By waiting for full colonisation, you ensure that the mycelium has fully established itself within the substrate. This means that it has grown throughout the substrate, forming a network of hyphae that will eventually develop into mushrooms. Allowing this process to reach completion provides the best environment for mushroom growth.
- Enhanced Yield: When the mycelium has fully colonised the substrate, it indicates that the mushrooms have utilised all the available nutrients efficiently. This results in a more abundant yield during the first flush.
- Reduced Risk of Contamination: Full colonisation creates an environment less susceptible to contamination. The mycelium forms a protective barrier, making it difficult for contaminants to establish themselves within the substrate.
Timing and Indicators for Full Colonisation
- The time it takes for full colonisation to occur can vary depending on various factors, including the type of mushroom, incubation temperature, and genetics of the spawn. Typically, it can take anywhere from 10 to 21 days for full colonisation to occur.
- You'll know that full colonisation has been achieved when you see a thick, white, mycelial growth covering the substrate. It should resemble a dense network of thread-like structures.
- Some growers also look for the appearance of "pins" or "primordia". These are tiny pinheads that indicate the initial stages of mushroom formation. While some growers prefer to wait for these pins before fruiting, others opt to wait for a more substantial pinset to ensure full colonisation.
Preparing for Fruiting
- Once full colonisation is achieved, it's time to introduce fruiting conditions. This involves increasing oxygen levels by partially opening the air vents of the monotub. Fresh air and light are essential triggers for initiating mushroom pinning.
- Place the monotub in a warm spot, maintaining a temperature between 21-24°C. Provide indirect sunlight or room light for at least 4-6 hours per day.
- For the first flush, misting is usually minimal. Mist the substrate lightly, ensuring that there is no standing water, as this can lead to bacterial growth.
- Fanning is also important during the fruiting process. Simply fold the monotub lid and create a fan-like motion to promote fresh air exchange and remove any CO2.
Remember, growing mushrooms in a monotub requires patience. Each grow will provide valuable lessons, and with experience, you'll develop a better understanding of the process and be able to refine your techniques.
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Allow the casing layer to colonise
To allow the casing layer to colonise, you must first apply the casing layer. To do this, take your remaining substrate and apply it directly on top of the spawned grain and substrate. Do not mix it with the spawned material. You want to create a 1-2 cm layer of substrate on top of your spawned mix. Gently level out the substrate to create an even, flat casing layer. The casing layer will protect the mycelium underneath as it colonises and acts as a humidity trap, giving you much more even, full flushes.
Once the casing is complete, snap the lid onto the tray and put your monotub somewhere dark and away from direct sunlight. You should maintain a temperature of between 24-27°C for colonisation. After about 10 days, your monotub should be fully colonised and ready to fruit. However, don't worry if it takes longer; it can sometimes take up to 2-3 weeks to fully colonise, depending on the genetics of your spawn and the incubation temperature.
Some growers prefer to wait until the casing layer is 50-75% colonised before introducing fruiting conditions. This ensures that the rest of the mycelial network has reconnected and is ready for fruiting. However, others choose to fruit once the monotub is 100% colonised. It is recommended that you wait until you see at least a few pins before fruiting, as this indicates that the mycelium has fully colonised the substrate. After about 14-21 days from spawning, you should see your first pins. These baby mushrooms will develop into mature mushroom fruiting bodies over the next few days.
During the colonisation process, you should mist the monotub occasionally to prevent it from drying out. Usually, a single mist directly onto the casing layer is enough to maintain the necessary humidity. However, if the substrate looks dry, you may need to mist every couple of days. Just be careful not to over-mist, as too much water can lead to bacterial growth. You want some light condensation in the tubs but no standing water.
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Maintain temperature between 21-27°C
Maintaining a temperature between 21-27°C is crucial for successful mushroom fruiting in a monotub. This temperature range provides optimal conditions for colonisation, pinning, and fruiting. Here are some detailed instructions to achieve and maintain the desired temperature:
Optimise Your Environment
First, choose an appropriate location for your monotub. Place it in a warm spot within the desired temperature range of 21-24°C. Ensure the room temperature doesn't exceed 27°C, as higher temperatures may be detrimental to the process. Avoid direct sunlight, but indirect sunlight or room light is beneficial. Aim to provide at least 4-6 hours of light per day. While mushrooms require minimal lighting, some light is always advantageous.
Utilise Heating Devices
Consider using an infrared heat mat to gently raise the temperature if your room temperature is consistently below the desired range. Place the heat mat underneath the monotub to provide a gentle heat source that penetrates the tub. However, be cautious not to overheat the monotub directly, as this could be counterproductive.
Monitor Temperature Consistently
Closely monitor the temperature of your monotub environment. Use a temperature probe or infrared thermometer to regularly check the temperature, ensuring it remains within the optimal range. This proactive monitoring will help you make any necessary adjustments to maintain the desired temperature.
Adjust Airflow and Ventilation
Proper airflow and ventilation are essential for temperature regulation. Monotubs are typically designed with ports and fresh air exchange filters that facilitate airflow while maintaining ambient humidity levels. Adjust the air vents slightly to increase oxygen levels when initiating fruiting conditions. However, avoid fully opening the vents, as fresh air and light are triggers for mushroom pinning, and you want to control the process.
Maintain Moisture Levels
Misting can help regulate temperature by increasing humidity. However, mist sparingly, aiming for light condensation on the tubs without any standing water. Over-misting can promote bacterial growth. Additionally, ensure the bulk substrate is at field capacity, meaning it should be slightly moist, and you should be able to squeeze out a few drops of water from it.
By following these detailed instructions, you can effectively maintain a temperature between 21-27°C in your monotub, creating favourable conditions for mushroom fruiting. Remember that patience is crucial in this process, and you will develop a better feel for temperature control and moisture management with each attempt.
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Misting and fanning techniques
Misting Techniques:
Misting is done using fine mist sprayers or bottles, and it is important to use clean water to avoid contamination. Aim for at least 10 sprays or pumps per day during the entire fruiting stage. Avoid directly misting the substrate or mushroom pins, as this can cause malformations. Instead, slightly remove the lid and mist the tub walls to create a humid environment. You can also mist the inside of a plastic bag if using one to grow your mushrooms. Additionally, you can soak high-surface-area materials like perlite and geolite, drain them, and then place them in the monotub to evaporate and maintain humidity.
Fanning Techniques:
Fanning is done to promote fresh air exchange and prevent the growth of anaerobic bacteria. After misting, fan the tub by slightly lifting and moving the lid up and down to create a fan-like effect. Do this for about 30 seconds, twice a day, until the fruiting stage ends. You can also use a computer fan to improve air exchange and reduce the risk of contamination. If using a plastic bag, cut holes in the top to provide additional air exchange.
Timing of Misting and Fanning:
The ideal time to start misting and fanning is when you see pinheads or primordia sprouting from the substrate. This indicates that the mushrooms are entering the fruiting stage and require increased humidity and air exchange. During the incubation phase, drilled holes in the monotub are covered to allow for full colonisation of the mycelium. Once colonisation is complete, the holes can be uncovered and fanning can begin.
Maintaining Optimal Conditions:
To maintain the ideal environment for mushroom fruiting, the humidity level in the monotub should be kept within 80-95%. Lower humidity can be achieved by using a casing layer on top of the substrate. Additionally, ensure that the temperature remains between 60-80°F during the fruiting stage, depending on the mushroom species. Light is also important, as it signals the mushrooms to start fruiting. Most light sources will work, including indirect sunlight and fluorescent bulbs. You can use a light on a timer to simulate day and night with a 12-hour on and 12-hour off schedule.
Avoiding Contamination:
Contamination is a concern, especially above 80°F. Use sterile techniques when preparing your monotub, and spray a general disinfectant into the air before starting. Bacteria thrive in standing water and overly wet conditions, so avoid overwatering. Additionally, Trichoderma, a fungal parasite, can be an issue during warmer weather; it appears white at first but quickly turns green. If you notice any signs of contamination, take immediate action to prevent it from spreading.
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Harvesting and rehydrating
Harvesting
Harvesting your monotub mushrooms is a delicate process that requires patience and attention to timing. The best time to harvest is when the mushrooms are mature, and this timing depends on several factors. Firstly, after the casing layer is applied, it takes about 14 to 21 days for the first pins to appear. These pins are baby mushrooms that will develop into mature fruiting bodies over the next few days. You should harvest just as the veils of the mushrooms start to break, and the caps begin to open. At this stage, the mushrooms are ready for picking.
To harvest, carefully remove the substrate and mushrooms from the monotub by sliding them out. Then, gently twist and pull the mushrooms at the base of their stems. It is recommended to dry the harvested mushrooms in a dehydrator and store them in an airtight container with a silica gel pack.
Rehydrating
After harvesting, you can rehydrate your monotub to prepare for consecutive flushes or crops of mushrooms. Each monotub can produce two to three flushes. To rehydrate, pour 8 to 12 cups of cold water directly onto the substrate or cake and mist heavily for about 45 seconds. Repeat the fruiting steps for subsequent flushes, and expect a few more crops from each tub.
It is important to note that the timing of harvesting and rehydrating may vary depending on the specific conditions and setup of your monotub. The colonisation process, for instance, can take 10 days to 3 weeks, depending on factors such as genetics and temperature. Additionally, the time it takes for pins to form and mature into mushrooms can vary, so it is essential to monitor your monotub closely and adjust your processes as needed.
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Frequently asked questions
You should fruit your monotub mushrooms when the casing layer is 50-75% colonised. This will ensure that the rest of your mycelial network has reconnected and is ready for fruiting conditions.
Colonisation can take anywhere from 10 to 21 days. It is important to maintain a temperature of between 24-27°C during colonisation.
Once your monotub has been introduced to fruiting conditions, you should mist the substrate once per day throughout the entire fruiting stage. You should also fan the substrate twice per day until the substrate is no longer producing mushrooms.
