Michael Davis
The Eiger Mushroom, also known as Känzeli or Pilz in German, is a famous rock formation located in the Swiss Alps, specifically on the north face of the Eiger mountain. The Eiger, with its fearsome and complicated north face, is considered one of the most famous peaks in the Alps, alongside Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn. The Mushroom is known for its distinctive shape, resembling a mushroom, and is often used as a site for base jumping and extreme sports. The climb to the Eiger Mushroom is challenging and technical, attracting experienced climbers and adventurers seeking a thrilling experience.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Location | Switzerland |
| Height | Almost 4000m |
| Face | North Face |
| First Ascent | Roger Schaeli and Christoph Hainz in 2007 |
| First Female Ascent | Sasha DiGiulian in 2015 |
| Grade | 5.13a |
| Pitches | 20 |
| Length | 600m |
| Description | Mushroom-shaped pinnacle |
| Protection | Bolts and pitons |
| Approach | West Ridge |
| Duration | 3 days |
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What You'll Learn
Eiger Mushroom is located in Switzerland
The Eiger is a mountain located in Switzerland, specifically in the Bernese Oberland valley. It is one of the most famous peaks in the Alps, rising to almost 4,000 meters. The Eiger's north face is particularly well-known and challenging, with a complicated and fearsome aspect that has attracted climbers for years.
The Eiger Mushroom, also known as "Känzeli" or "Pilz" in German, is a distinctive feature located on the mountain's west flank. It is a mushroom-shaped rock formation that has been described as an "impressive detached pillar." The Eiger Mushroom is accessible via a climbing route that begins at the Eigergletscher station. This route involves climbing to the south of the Rotstock and then traversing a steep corridor with snow. After the corridor, climbers turn left and then go straight to reach the W ridge/edge, where the Eiger Mushroom is located.
The Eiger Mushroom has been featured in various climbing and BASE jumping accounts. It was first jumped in the 1990s by a Frenchman, and subsequently by an American and a Swiss jumper. German Peter is also noted for jumping the Mushroom three times in one day without a helicopter.
The Eiger Mushroom is not just a destination for adrenaline-pumping activities but also offers a natural setting for hard big-wall free climbs. In August 2015, Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi successfully climbed the Magic Mushroom, a 20-pitch 5.13a route on the far right side of the Eiger's north face. This climb involved rappelling and spending three days to complete their free ascent.
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It is a challenging climb
The Eiger is a mountain in the Alps, located in Switzerland. It is considered one of the most famous peaks in the Alps, despite falling just short of 4,000 meters in height. The Eiger's north face is particularly well-known and presents a challenging climb for mountaineers.
One notable feature of the Eiger is the "Magic Mushroom" or "Eiger Mushroom," a mushroom-shaped pinnacle that is located about halfway up the north face. This pinnacle has been the site of several notable climbs and BASE jumps. The first ascent of the Magic Mushroom was made by Christoph Hainz and Roger Schaeli in 2007, and it has since been climbed by other notable mountaineers such as Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi.
Climbing the Eiger is a challenging endeavor due to its steep and complex topography. The north face, in particular, presents a formidable obstacle with its vertical or impending upper sections. The Magic Mushroom climb, for example, involves 20 pitches, with the first half mostly consisting of 5.9 to easy 5.11 climbing, while the second half includes about six 5.12 or harder pitches. The route is protected with fixed pitons and bolts but also has substantial runouts, exposing climbers to potential risks.
In addition to the technical difficulties, the Eiger can present unpredictable weather conditions. The "foehn," southerly winds that blow on the north side of the Alps in winter, can bring sudden bursts of warm air and stormy weather, catching climbers off guard. This, coupled with the potential for rockfall and other hazards, makes climbing the Eiger a demanding and dangerous undertaking.
Furthermore, the approach to the Eiger can also be challenging. The traditional route begins with an expensive one-hour train ride from Grindelwald to Kleine Scheidegg, followed by another short train ride to Eigergletscher. This train journey takes climbers to the lower slopes of the north face, from where they can begin their ascent. The cost and logistics of this journey add to the overall challenge of climbing the Eiger.
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It was first climbed in 2007
The Eiger is a mountain in Switzerland, with its north face being one of the greatest prizes in mountaineering. The first-ever attempt to climb the Eiger was recorded in 1857, with the first successful ascent taking place in 1858 via the west flank.
Eiger's Magic Mushroom, a 600-metre route, was first climbed in 2007 by Roger Schäli and Christoph Hainz. They climbed all but a couple of pitches free. The first half of the climb is mostly 5.9 to easy 5.11, while the second half contains about six 5.12 or harder pitches. The route is protected with fixed pitons and bolts but has some substantial runouts. The climb took six days to complete.
In 2009, two years after the first ascent, Stephan Siegrist and Ralf Weber free-climbed the route, and Siegrist descended by making a BASE jump from the top. In 2015, Sasha DiGiulian became the first woman to free climb Magic Mushroom, one of the most difficult routes on the north face of the Eiger.
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It is 20 pitches in length
The Eiger is a mountain in the Alps, falling just short of 4,000 meters. It is located in Switzerland, looming 3,000 meters in around 4,000 meters from Grindelwald, with the last 2,000 meters comprising its fearsome, complicated north face. The Eiger is considered one of the most famous peaks in the Alps, alongside Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn.
The Eiger Mushroom, also known as "Känzeli" or "Pilz" in German, is a mushroom-shaped rock formation located on the mountain. It is a popular spot for base jumpers who pitch off the north face of the mountain. The Eiger Mushroom can be accessed from the Eigergletscher station by following a steep corridor with snow and then taking a left turn before reaching the W ridge/edge.
The Eiger's Magic Mushroom is a climbing route on the mountain that was first climbed by Christoph Hainz and Roger Schaeli in 2007. It is 20 pitches in length, with the first half of the route being less difficult (up to 5.10d) and the second half being more challenging (between 5.11b to 5.13a). The route is protected by bolts and a few pitons, and it took the first climbers six days to complete.
In August 2015, Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi became the first Americans to free climb Magic Mushroom. They rappelled the route to inspect it and then spent three days completing their free ascent. They approached the climb from the top, carrying two loads up the West Ridge and rappelling to the base the next day. DiGiulian noted that the rock quality was cleaner and better protected on the harder pitches.
The Eiger has a reputation for being dangerous and challenging, and it is often subject to sudden bursts of warm air and stormy weather. Despite the risks, it continues to attract climbers seeking to conquer its formidable peaks.
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It is also called Magic Mushroom
The Eiger is a mountain in Switzerland, located in the beautiful Berner Oberland valley. The Eiger's Magic Mushroom is a 600-metre route up the mountain's north face, first climbed in 2007 by Roger Schäli and Christoph Hainz. It is named for its distinctive shape, ending in a mushroom-shaped pinnacle.
Magic Mushroom is also the name given to a type of hallucinogenic mushroom, which contains the prodrug psilocybin, which turns into the psychedelic psilocin upon ingestion. The effects of psilocybin mushrooms include hallucinations, nausea, vomiting, euphoria, muscle weakness or relaxation, drowsiness, and lack of coordination. They are commonly known as "magic mushrooms" or "shrooms" and are used as recreational drugs.
The name "Magic Mushroom" for the Eiger route may be derived from the distinctive shape of the pinnacle at the end of the route, which climbers have likened to a mushroom. The term "magic" may also evoke a sense of wonder and awe, reflecting the challenging nature of the climb and the beautiful surroundings of the Eiger mountain.
The Eiger's Magic Mushroom route is a prominent feature, often used as a launchpoint by BASE jumpers. The route is 20 pitches in length, with the first half of the route climbing up to 5.10d, and the second half being more difficult, with terrain between 5.11b to 5.13a. The quality of the limestone is very compact, and protection on the route comes from bolts and a few pitons.
The Magic Mushroom route has attracted many climbers, including Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi, who completed the route in 2015. DiGiulian described the climb as challenging due to falling rocks, and her helmet was reportedly "completely destroyed" by repeated rockfall. Despite the dangers, the Eiger's Magic Mushroom route continues to be a popular climb, offering a unique and exhilarating experience for adventurous climbers.
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Frequently asked questions
The Eiger Mushroom is located in Switzerland.
The German name for the Eiger Mushroom is "Känzeli", also called "Pilz" (mushroom).
The best way to get to the Eiger Mushroom is by taking a train from Grindelwald to Kleine Scheidegg, and then another train to Eigergletscher. From there, follow the path between the Rotsock and the SW ridge/edge and continue climbing right. Then, take the corridor and climb the steep path with snow. After the corridor, take a left and continue straight to the W ridge/edge. You will be at the bottom of "Frühstücksplatz", and just below that is the Känzeli (Eiger Mushroom).
The Eiger Mushroom is a popular spot for base jumping and wingsuit flying. It was first jumped by Ueli Gegenschatz and Hannes Arch, and German Peter jumped the Mushroom 3 times in one day without a helicopter. It is also a challenging climb, with 20 pitches in length and a difficulty range of 5.10d to 5.13a.
