Laura Smith
Dyeing with mushrooms is a relatively new practice that was pioneered in 1972 by Miriam C. Rice, who experimented with, discovered, and documented the use of fungi as dyes for fibres and paper. The procedure for mushroom dyeing is similar to using other natural dyes: treat the fibres with a mordant, cook the fibres with the dye, and then rinse. Mushrooms, like most other natural dyes, tend to create brighter, more saturated colours on protein/animal-based fibres such as wool and silk. There are a few steps to follow to get started with dyeing with mushrooms: select the right type of mushroom, prepare the mushroom dye bath, prepare the fibres, and then dye the fibres.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Mushroom types | Phaeolus schweinitzii (Dyer's Polypore), Cortinarius sanguineus, Hapalopilus nidulans, Hydnellum species, Gomp<co: 21>hus floccosus |
| Mushroom preparation | Dried, crushed, soaked in room-temperature distilled water for at least an hour, cooked for an hour at 170-180°F |
| Fiber types | Protein fibers (wool, silk, alpaca, angora, cashmere), cellulose fibers (cotton, linen, hemp, nylon) |
| Fiber preparation | Pre-soaked, simmered in dye bath for an hour at 165-180°F, cooled, rinsed, washed, air-dried |
| Mordants | Alum, iron, copper, chrome, tin, cream of tartar, Glauber's salt, vinegar, citric acid, ammonia, washing soda |
| pH modifiers | Vinegar, citric acid, ammonia, washing soda |
| Mushroom-dyeing books | How to Use Mushrooms for Color, The Rainbow Beneath My Feet: A Mushroom Dyer's Field Guide, Mushroom Color Atlas |
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What You'll Learn
The best types of fibres for mushroom dyeing
Mushroom dyeing is more of an art than a science, and there are no set rules for extracting dye from mushrooms. The best types of fibres for mushroom dyeing are protein/animal-based fibres such as wool, alpaca and silk. These fibres tend to create brighter, more saturated colours. Wool is a popular choice for mushroom dyeing and can be sourced from various places, such as Henry's Attic Crown Colony and Kramer's Eileen.
Cellulose/plant-based fibres such as cotton, linen or hemp can also be used, but the colours are often more muted and lighter. These fibres require additional treatments to retain the dye pigment. Before using fabric that is not prepared for dyeing (PFD), it needs to be scoured to remove surfactants so that the mordant and dye can bind to the fibres.
The type of fibre is not the only factor influencing the final colour. The colour achieved is also determined by the type, amount and condition of mushrooms used, the temperature and duration of the dye bath, the pH level, and the type of mordant used. Mordants are chemicals that bind to dyes and help them stick to fibres. Different mordants and mushrooms can create a wide variety of colours. For example, alum brightens colours, while iron darkens them.
Some mushrooms, such as polypores and toothed fungi, require a larger quantity to achieve a strong colour, while others, such as Cortinarius semisanguineus or Hapalopilus nidulans, require less. The Lobster Mushroom, commonly found in Mendocino County, produces a Tang-orange colour without a mordant in a neutral pH dye bath. However, by alkalinising the dye bath, the colour shifts to hot pink or magenta.
Overall, while protein/animal-based fibres tend to yield brighter results, it is possible to achieve a range of colours with different types of fibres by experimenting with various mushrooms, dyeing techniques, and mordants.
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How to prepare mushrooms for dyeing
Preparing mushrooms for dyeing involves several steps, from foraging to mordanting. Here is a detailed guide on how to prepare mushrooms for dyeing:
Foraging for Mushrooms
Firstly, it is critical to learn how to identify mushrooms and become a conscientious and thoughtful forager. Ensure that you are foraging in approved areas and have the necessary permits. Leave some mushrooms behind for future growth and be mindful of the environment. The age and maturity of the mushrooms are significant factors, as older mushrooms are typically foraged for dyeing.
Preparing the Mushrooms
Once you have foraged your mushrooms, you need to prepare them for dyeing. Weigh your mushrooms to ensure you have enough, as the general rule of thumb is to have a 1:1 ratio of mushroom weight to fiber weight. You can use dried, frozen, or fresh mushrooms, but they may yield different colours. To expose more surface area, cut, crush, or chop the mushrooms into smaller pieces.
Creating the Dye Bath
Grind the dried mushrooms into a fine powder using a coffee grinder designated for dyestuffs. Wear a mask when grinding to avoid inhaling the mushroom particles. The next step is to hydrate the mushroom powder. Add one litre of water warmed to 115°F (46°C) to the powder and stir well. Keep the mixture at this temperature for one hour, stirring occasionally.
Mordanting
Mordanting is a crucial step in the process, as it helps the mushroom dye bind to the fibre. There are various mordants to choose from, including aluminium potassium sulphate, aluminium acetate, iron, and copper. The type of mordant will affect the final colour. For example, alum mordant produces bright, clear colours, while iron darkens the shades.
Preparing the Fibre
Before placing your fibre into the dye bath, it is essential to start with clean, washed fibres. If your fabric was not prepared for dyeing (PFD), you will need to scour it first. Use mild soap or a pH-neutral detergent, bring the water to a low boil, and simmer for an hour. The water should appear dirty, ensuring any surfactants have been removed. Then, wet out your mordanted fibres and steep them in warm water at 115°F (46°C) for an hour, stirring occasionally.
By following these steps, you will effectively prepare your mushrooms and fibres for dyeing, creating beautiful and unique colours.
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The role of mordants in mushroom dyeing
Mushroom dyeing is a natural process that uses the pigments found in mushrooms to colour fabrics. The type of mushroom used will determine the colour of the dye, with some mushrooms producing novel pigments not found in plants or insects.
There are three standard mordants used in natural dyeing: aluminium potassium sulfate, aluminium acetate, and iron. Other mordants include copper, chrome, and tin, though these are less commonly used due to their toxicity. Alum is one of the most common mordants and produces the brightest, clearest colours. The amount of mordant used will depend on the weight of the fibre, with a higher weight of fibre requiring more mordant.
There are two main methods for mordanting: pre-mordanting and all-in-one. In the pre-mordanting method, the mordant is dissolved in near-boiling water in a large pot, and the fibre is then added and simmered for one hour. The all-in-one method involves dissolving the mordant in boiling water and adding it to the mushroom dye bath, along with pre-soaked yarn.
When dyeing with mushrooms, it is important to select the appropriate type of fibre. Mushroom dyes work best with protein fibres such as wool and silk, as they create brighter, more saturated colours. Cellulose fibres such as cotton, linen, or hemp can also be used but may require more pre-processing and will result in more muted colours.
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The best mushroom types for dyeing
Dyeing with mushrooms is an art, and there is no set rule or recipe for extracting dye from them. Different mushrooms produce different colours, and the same mushroom can produce different colours depending on the mordant used.
The Dyer's Polypore (Phaeolus schweinitzii) is a great mushroom for beginners. It produces oranges, yellows, greens, and browns, depending on the mordant used. The best time to pick and dry this mushroom is when the outer growing edge is bright yellow, with yellow-green pores underneath.
Inonotus hispidus is a large annual polypore found on several species of oak in eastern North America. It produces deep burnt orange, red-orange, golden orange, and yellow-gold colours, depending on the mordant and age of the mushroom when picked.
Hapalopilus nidulans is a small, unassuming polypore that dyes wool amazing shades of purple.
The Cortinarius sanguineus group imparts wool with brilliant reds, oranges, and yellows.
Chanterelles can be used to create nice yellow wool.
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How to dye different materials
Dyeing with mushrooms is a unique and creative way to add colour to various materials. The process involves foraging for dye mushrooms, preparing the dye bath, and treating the fabric or fibre with a mordant to help the colour bind to the material. The type of mushroom, its age and maturity, the dyeing technique, and the choice of mordant all influence the final colour. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to dye different materials using mushroom dyes:
Foraging for Dye Mushrooms:
Foraging for wild mushrooms is an essential first step, and it requires knowledge and caution. It is critical to identify mushrooms accurately and forage in approved areas without trespassing. Some recommended mushrooms for dyeing include Phaeolus schweinitzii (Dyer's Polypore), Hydnellum peckii, and Hapalopilus nidulans.
Preparing the Mushrooms and Dye Bath:
The mushrooms can be used fresh, dried, or frozen, and the entire mushroom or just the caps and stems may be utilised. Weigh the mushrooms to ensure you have enough for the desired colour intensity. Grind the mushrooms into a fine powder using a coffee grinder, and then hydrate the powder in warm water, stirring well. The ratio of mushroom powder to water is typically 1:1 or 1:2.
Mordanting the Fibre:
Mordanting is a crucial step to help the mushroom colour affix to the fibre. Different mordants, such as iron, aluminium potassium sulphate, or cream of tartar, can be used depending on the desired colour and fibre type. For wool, warm water is used, and the mordant is dissolved before adding the fibres. The mixture is heated and then allowed to cool for 24 hours before rinsing and drying the fibres. Silk has a similar process but at a lower temperature.
Dyeing the Fibre:
After preparing the mushroom dye bath and mordanting the fibre, it's time to combine them. Wet the mordanted fibre and place it into the warm dye bath, steeping it for about an hour while stirring occasionally. The dye bath's pH can be adjusted with vinegar or soda ash to achieve different colours. For example, a pH of 4 can produce coral and orange hues, while a higher pH of 9 can result in redder shades.
Drying and Reusing the Dye:
Once the fibre has been dyed and reaches the desired colour, it is removed from the dye bath and allowed to dry. The dye bath liquid can be reused in a process called consequent dying or exhaust dyeing, creating lighter shades with each subsequent use.
Mushroom dyeing is an experimental and creative process that may require some trial and error to achieve the desired colours. The type of mushroom, its age, and the choice of mordant all play a role in the final outcome. By following these steps and exploring different combinations, you can successfully dye various materials with mushrooms and create a range of natural colours.
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Frequently asked questions
Mushroom dyes work best with protein fibres, such as wool, silk, alpaca, angora, and cashmere. For vegans, soy silk can be used, but the colours don't stick as well. Cellulose fibres like cotton, linen, and hemp can be used, but they require additional treatments to retain the dye pigment and the colours are often more muted and lighter.
First, you'll need to dry and identify your mushrooms. Then, crush, break up, or grate the dried mushrooms into very small pieces and soak them in room-temperature distilled water for at least one hour, preferably overnight. Add more water and place in a cooking pot, bringing the temperature to 170–180°F and cook for one hour. Simmer your fibre in the dye bath for an hour, then cool. Rinse and wash the unbound dye from the fibre and let it air dry.
Mordants are water-soluble, metallic salts that aid in the dyeing process by affecting the colour and helping it bind to the fibre. The most commonly used mordants are alum and iron, while copper is sometimes used. You can pre-mordant your fibre or use the all-in-one method, where you dissolve the mordant in boiling water and add it to the mushroom dye bath.
The colour of the mushroom does not always indicate the colour of the dye, so you may need to experiment. The Dyer's Polypore (Phaeolus schweinitzii) produces oranges, yellows, and greens, while the Cortinarius sanguineus group imparts reds, oranges, and yellows. Hapalopilus nidulans dyes wool shades of purple, and blues can be obtained from Hydnellum species.
Yes, there are several books available on the subject, including "How to Use Mushrooms for Color" by Miriam C. Rice, "The Rainbow Beneath My Feet: A Mushroom Dyer's Field Guide" by Arleen and Alan Bessette, and "Natural Dyes, Sources, Tradition, Technology and Science" by Dominique Cardon. You can also refer to online resources such as the Mushroom Color Atlas, which explores the chromatic universe of fungi.
